22 – Home run to Kangerluk

The next morning weather was fine again. It looked like as if weather will improve during day. The normal routine started making food and coffee, drinking, eating, checking the maps, and packing all things together. My plan for today was to reach Kangerluk at 16:00 just before the shop closes.

One lunch break would be sufficient to plan for today. I selected the food items that I need for the lunch break and put them together with all the required cooking equipment into one of the side pockets of my backpack.

I left the camp site and progress was fine. I knew the route. There were some ups and downs but all quite easy to handle. The scenery was again magnificent with the mirror level calm fjord in the foreground, the partly ice covered mountains, and U-shaped valleys in the background. The sun was breaking through the cloud cover and throughout the day the sun was gaining more and more ground against the clouds.

Along with the sun came the mosquitoes and bull flies. In the beginning the bull flies were just a few in numbers and the situation was still quite tolerable. Later, however, I had to use my mosquito cap which has a mosquito net attached to it to protect my face and neck.

Most of today’s trip was along the shore of the fjord on sandy ground. The water of the fjord was still muddy even some 5 kilometers away from where the river from glacier entered into the fjord.

Moving on, I came across a place where local Inuits use to smoke arctic char for which they made a hole into the ground, the smoke chamber, into which the fish was placed for smoking. This chamber is then covered with peat. An about 10m long smoke channel links the smoked chamber with the actual fire place. When preparing cold smoked fish it is very important that smoke cools down until it reaches the fish. Inuits told me that the procedure of cold smoking fish takes a couple of days in total.

I continued and noticed that I definitely will not manage up to Kangerluk till 16:00 and I decided to enjoy the time and take it more slowly instead. With a lot of resting I reached the end of the fjord and had to turn land inwards. At that location there were little rivers with lots of arctic chars what noticed the last time when I had been there. This time it seems there were not any. Perhaps, this was due to the fact that the last time I have been there was about 4 weeks earlier.